USB Hub board

[Sorgelig]

Yeah, it's "just in case". EEPROM is not required.

[Sorgelig]

By the way. What i've forgot to mention anywhere - you need to connect ID pin(4) of microUSB plug to ground pin(5).

[cvenditti]

For the power cable this should be clean - Barrel Plug Splitter (on of the female end can be cut and directly solder to the Hub):

CY-DC-5-5mm-Jack-Power-Female-Barrel-to-2-Male-Plug-Barrel-Connector-Splitter-Cable.jpg_640x640.jpg

For the connection Hub/Nano this cut will be perfect:

USBAUBXMU.B.jpg

For the price I'm thinking $45 without any LED. The 2 cables above might add an extra $5.

What do you think guys?

Cyril

[Sorgelig]

From my point of view, too expensive. Board has only one small chip, several passives and 7 connectors..
But of course it depends on buyers and their willing to pay.

[cvenditti]

Yes, I know honestly I think that should around $30 but that said I don't think I'm willing to go lower than $45.

It is not for greed but I like to do a great job and that take me lot of time to solder the small SMD (I'm 43 I don't have a laser sight anymore ). The other part is the testing (I'm really testing well - the boards must work in the hands of the buyer), finding boxes, packing well and going to the post office.

My other issue is to be in the US. The market is in Europe (France where I'm from originally, UK and Germany), I'm not sure to sell the 15 boards if someone from Europe decide to do them (the shipping cost are $14 international from the US).

I'm not absolutely not whining, I'm really glad to sell boards and to be a little part of this project, I'm just explaining the price point.

That said if I can have 3 or 4 orders I will give it a go.

Let me know

Cyril


EDIT:
Who is using a hot air soldering? How much time can you save compare to regular soldering?

[cvenditti]

Another way to go is to have it manufactured Itead have something https://www.itead.cc/pcba.
Did anyone tried - what is the min. quantities to not be charge hundreds?

[THaase]

Hi Cyril,

send you a reply to your PM but still in the Outbox.
I‘m using Hotair for the most of the SMDs (no Tantals no Ram).
Stopped my time during build up the IOs.
Need about 30 sec per piece in average without stencil.

Getting 47 this year. Also glases - but using a lens for soldering.

[cvenditti]

(no Tantals no Ram).

Do you fear to fry them?

Need about 30 sec per piece in average without stencil.

I think that is about the same with a regular solder iron.

I also send you a PM and it is also still in the outbox!

[THaase]

(no Tantals no Ram).

Do you fear to fry them?

NO
Ok, the Tantals took too long - as I'm using some kind of yellow ones they will get some kind of sunburn - Working, but doesn't look good!

The Ram is something different - when I'm using the Hotair max speed is in most cases 150 MHz - some go up to 160 others down to 140.
If I resolder them with a normal iron - I get 167MHz ...

Double work makes no sense - therefore I just use the iron.

[retox]

So come on guys, again: Who says yes to another floor on the Tower of Power ?

An USB daughter board with power cables manufactured in the U.S. of A. by Cyril (cvenditti)?

1. retox takes ONE

2. NML32 takes ONE

We need at least 4 and Cyril will start soldering ... (hopefully)

Come on, say YES to another ACCESS ...

Have a nice weekend ...

retox

[Sorgelig]

Some people on FB may also want.

[Sorgelig]

Btw, instead of cutting the MicroUSB cable, i suggest to use generic microUSB plug and just bind it by termo shrinking pipe. Like i did.

[cvenditti]

We need at least 4 and Cyril will start soldering ... (hopefully)

The parts/PCBs are ordered.

by Cyril (cvenditti)?

Same guy


I will do the Board for $45 (no LEDs) with the 2 cables (Power and MIni USB).

I will report here my progress

Thank you
Cyril

[cvenditti]

Btw, instead of cutting the MicroUSB cable, i suggest to use generic microUSB plug and just bind it by termo shrinking pipe. Like i did.

Do you think this configuration will be more solid or it is for cost saving? I think the 90 degrees mini USB like look better. But I can definitely customize per order depending of what people prefer.

[mattsoft]

So come on guys, again: Who says yes to another floor on the Tower of Power ?

An USB daughter board with power cables manufactured in the U.S. of A. by Cyril (cvenditti)?

1. retox takes ONE

2. NML32 takes ONE

We need at least 4 and Cyril will start soldering ... (hopefully)

Come on, say YES to another ACCESS ...

Have a nice weekend ...

retox

I'm definitely in for ONE too. My MiSTer needs more height.

[Sorgelig]

Do you think this configuration will be more solid or it is for cost saving? I think the 90 degrees mini USB like look better. But I can definitely customize per order depending of what people prefer.

My way is solid enough. Especially you don't need to plug/unplug often.
90 degree cable will be too bulky and may prevent even plug to nearby USB socket.

[hlide]

I'm also interested in getting one.

[cmdrpds]

As am I!

[cvenditti]

As am I!

I'm also interested in getting one.

If you want one please PM
Cyril

[cvenditti]

The PCBs arrived yesterday (a lot!)
Here a sample:

IMG_20180521_193853592.jpg

I'm still missing some parts for the HUB which should be here by today.
I will start the soldering tonight.


Cyril

[cvtof]

The PCBs arrived yesterday (a lot!)
Here a sample:
IMG_20180521_193853592.jpg
I'm still missing some parts for the HUB which should be here by today.
I will start the soldering tonight.


Cyril

Good News

[Sorgelig]

The board can be used as a standalone USB hub as well. You can see 2 additional holes on the edge without USB connectors. These holes can be used to fix the cable in place.

[cvenditti]

Here the first board that I did yesterday night. That took twice the time that I expected (you have to be extra careful soldering the FE2.1, its pins are tiny).

IMG_20180522_220617182.jpg

So people be patient please

Here are a picture of the gazillion USB header:

IMG_20180522_221058269.jpg

Cyril

[hlide]

the first board looks beautiful .

[Sorgelig]

Here the first board that I did yesterday night. That took twice the time that I expected (you have to be extra careful soldering the FE2.1, its pins are tiny).

It's better to solder LED15 (power). It's not simple power LED - it's ON only when USB hub is initialized. So, it's kind "OK, it works now."