I/O Board

[nathan1974au]

Sorgelig! do you have the full parts list for your 5.1 io board?

I don't have BOM because many parts i've bought in local store.
Almost the whole BOM for I/O is on Wiki page. v5.x uses all parts from v3.1 with several new items like slide switch (discussed earlier in this thread), FAN (which is also discussed eralier) with connector and MicroSD socket (link has been posted earlier as well).

If someone is willing to update the BOM with latest additions, then i would be glad.

thank you Sorgelig that's ok! it's part of the fun working it out!

[gagadagatika]

Sorgelig! do you have the full parts list for your 5.1 io board?

I am going to update the Wiki page today with the components I used for my last build. I’ve got very positive responses back with those components so I am feeling confident enough to release it now.

[Sorgelig]

I am going to update the Wiki page today with the components I used for my last build. I’ve got very positive responses back with those components so I am feeling confident enough to release it now.

Thank you!

[gagadagatika]

I am going to update the Wiki page today with the components I used for my last build. I’ve got very positive responses back with those components so I am feeling confident enough to release it now.

Thank you!

Assembly Guides for IO, RTC and SDRAM Boards are up to date now.

[Sorgelig]

Assembly Guides for IO, RTC and SDRAM Boards are up to date now.

[nathan1974au]

Assembly Guides for IO, RTC and SDRAM Boards are up to date now.

you legend thank you!

[nathan1974au]

Sorgelig! do you have the full parts list for your 5.1 io board?

I am going to update the Wiki page today with the components I used for my last build. I’ve got very positive responses back with those components so I am feeling confident enough to release it now.

thank you

[Frederir]

Full_MISTER_USB.jpg

While waiting for my SDRAM PCB. I quickly modified the IO/Board to add a USB hub (based on GL850G). I had to get rid of button and led connectors and to modify the button to place them in front.

A micro usb jumper PCB link the USB from the DE10 to the IOBoard USB.

What do you think ?

F.

[Sorgelig]

While adopting MiSTer to Pi-Top case i also implement HUB, but using FE1.1S. It almost doesn't require external components and very cheap.

Convenience of such composition is doubtful. For using without case - may be ok. If case is planned, then these USB connectors are too high. Position of buttons aren't convenient - especially the right one - you will hit/cut your finger by sharp edge of USB connector. And if something bulky will be plugged into USB, it will be hard to reach the buttons. View angle of LEDs looks very narrow. I see only part of one LED from this angle.

I would think about separate add-on board which will extend Ethernet, Mini-USB and add HUB.

P.S.: i didn't make full length of I/O board not because i'm so dumb to do this. It's because of significant price increase (more than 5 times!) for boards over 100x100mm.

[Frederir]

While adopting MiSTer to Pi-Top case i also implement HUB, but using FE1.1S. It almost doesn't require external components and very cheap.

The GL850G is in the same league as the FE1.1. Only external crystal needed and two resistors + decoupling. I did not check the power consumption to see which one is better.

Convenience of such composition is doubtful. For using without case - may be ok. If case is planned, then these USB connectors are too high. Position of buttons aren't convenient - especially the right one - you will hit/cut your finger by sharp edge of USB connector. And if something bulky will be plugged into USB, it will be hard to reach the buttons. View angle of LEDs looks very narrow. I see only part of one LED from this angle.

Good points, the problem is the ethernet connector on the DE10 which prevent through hole components on the upper board. I left the led as they were on your PCB, the idea was to raise them so they can be visible on the top.

For the height I did not find any good solution, there is low profile staked connectors like :
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pcs-Do ... 36844.html but they are quite difficult to source and expensive.
Edge USB connectors would be very similar in height to stacked.
If someone has an Idea I'm open to suggestions.

And for the buttons... I think you're right. Time to go back to the drawing board.

I would think about separate add-on board which will extend Ethernet, Mini-USB and add HUB.

This is something I considered, I did not find an elegant solution to extend the Ethernet. Any tip ?

P.S.: i didn't make full length of I/O board not because i'm so dumb to do this. It's because of significant price increase (more than 5 times!) for boards over 100x100mm.

I did not looked into it, I'm used to price PCB per square meter. But I guess for very low quantities a small size difference can make a big price jump. At the same time 5 times $1 is $5...

F.

[Sorgelig]

Chinese PCB manufacturers have fixed price $5 for 10pcs of any board with size below 100x100 mm. If any dimension go over 100mm (even 101mm) the price jump to something like $26. It may vary for different manufacturers, but it's similar.
General user don't need 10 the same boards, but it has no reason to order less because total cost is the same for any amount below 10 pcs.
Since my main target is to make addons as cheap as possible, i need to concern the PCB price. Paying $20+ just for PCB is too much considering that DE10-nano is $130 only.
Ideally would be good to order the set of PCBs with 1 pcs each with total cost like $5, but there is no such PCB manufacturers..

[Sorgelig]

I would think about separate add-on board which will extend Ethernet, Mini-USB and add HUB.

This is something I considered, I did not find an elegant solution to extend the Ethernet. Any tip ?

I didn't came to a good solution yet.. There are no PCB male connectors for Ethernet plug. There are no good PCB male plug for mini/micro USB either, except that vertical connectors requiring vertical board..
I also think about HUB pcb which could be under the main board. So, it will be possible to place 4x single USB sockets.

There is an option to drop ethernet and use WiFi instead. Thus extension for Ethernet won't be required. Pretty viable solution, IMHO. In this case, HUB can be made as a vertical board with all vertical connectors.

[THaase]

Dear Sorgelig,

I've stumbled about a very small inconsistence in the Part List for the IO Board DIY.

R1, R7, R13 Resistor 1% 1/8W 0805 500 YAGEO RC0805FR-07510RL

Inside of the list the values for R1,R7and R13 are given with 500 Ohm, but the linked SMD is 510 Ohm.
Inside of the schematics its also mentioned as 510 nevertheless - even if in the VGA signal path I would not expect a massive impact on the signal quality if assembled with 500 Ohm.

[Sorgelig]

Feel free to improve the resistor ladder but you need to take in account the resistance of whole path which includes resistance of FPGA output.
Actually even resistors of 5% tolerance will be fine. Not really visible. I use %5 of some of them because my local store doesn't have 1% of each nominal.
For perfectionists, some resistance tweak can be added, although only couple cores can provide full range of colors - i.e. Minimig.

[THaase]

Sorry maybe you have not spoken clear enougth.
I am far away to change the ladder - this is out of my scope.
I just want to inform you that the risistors in the table are mentioned with 500 R instead of the right 510R. The link is ok but the description value is wrong

[Sorgelig]

ah, ok.

[Newsdee]

Would it be possible to make an IO board that does not use any SMD components? That would make it buildable by many more people... myself included

Not sure what can be done for the SD card though, unless maybe using a cable to connect to one of Arduino mini PCBs.

Or would not using SMD affect the electronics/output quality in some way?

[Sorgelig]

Yes, it's possible. You can design the I/O board convenient for you using Eagle, Altium or other PCB design program. All PCB documents are published. I'm not going to do it myself as i think THT components aren't suitable for modern design. For me, soldering 0805 components are much easier than THT. It's even quicker. I solder them by simple soldering iron.
THT resistors/capacitors will occupy 4 times or even more space than SMD, so you won't be able to fit into current dimensions unless you remove some features.

[alanswx]

I was really scared of soldering together the SMD - but I bought a heat gun from amazon, and all the parts. It is actually not that hard, and kind of relaxing to solder everything. The only component that was a bit complicated was the RAM chip. The rest of the boards were really easy. I was shocked. I made 9 I/O boards -- be careful not to send the tiny resistors flying with the tweezers. I lost one resistor, so I couldn't complete the 10th I/O board.

[Cebion]

Best to use short or long tweezers for holding the piece in place?

[alanswx]

I am not sure the size of the tweezers matters. I watched a video like this one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0XENpPtisnM

The solder paste is sticky. So you just have to place the resistor (or other part) into the solder paste. When you put in enough (you don't have to do them all at once) just heat it up, and the solder will flow into place. The only challenge is on the memory part if you put too much solder it will bridge between the pins. Then you need to use a normal iron to push the solder away, and a solder wick to wick off the extra. That is annoying. I would err on the side of too little solder paste. I needed to run over the memory chip with the regular soldering iron.

Order some solder, flux, a heat gun, and some tweezers:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0745 ... UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017R ... UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019S ... =UTF8&th=1

It is relaxing, like putting together a jigsaw puzzle.

[alanswx]

BTW - I lost the resistor because it is tiny, and i squeezed too hard, so it went flying.

[Storm82]

Any idea why the LEDs are not working on my recently assembled I/O Board 5.2?
I'm pretty sure that I've soldered the short leg (cathode) in direction to the K on the PCB.

Anything else is working perfectly

[Sorgelig]

Any idea why the LEDs are not working on my recently assembled I/O Board 5.2?
I'm pretty sure that I've soldered the short leg (cathode) in direction to the K on the PCB.

you need to short P5 jumper.

[Storm82]

Any idea why the LEDs are not working on my recently assembled I/O Board 5.2?
I'm pretty sure that I've soldered the short leg (cathode) in direction to the K on the PCB.

you need to short P5 jumper.

That was easy. Thank you!