Atari-Forum

Try to clean up the card contacts with a pencil eraser to remove oxidation. Also try to beef up the GND line between the ISA slot and PSU.

The screen size: Amiga version has a bigger screen size than Atari. Amiga supports overscan and even without that, its screen is wider, because of lower pixelclock. On ST/E you have to use tricks to open the borders. Scenes: The Atari ST version has less scenes than the Amiga one (maybe due to disk...

That's an updated/fixed Frak/2 revision?
I have the original one with all the patches and mods, but I never got it working, so I'm still stucked to Frak/1.

No, it wasn't. The 520+ name was chosen to avoid confusion with a "large" 1040.

The ALE pin is most probably unconnected.
Some of my AX cards seem to work, but I have no idea what to fill in the 256 color related setup field in VMG4000 app to get proper color output. Unfortunately, none of my AX cards are HC/TC capable.

I tried NVDI as a driver and W23 does not work at all.

BTW, why the W32 needs an extra handling from the ISA adapter perspective?

Those early Phatom boards actually work perfectly well when installed correctly. On the other side I've seen a couple of profesinally looking SMT variants, that were designed a completely wrong (bad ground layer, decoupling caps placed incorrectly, wrong chips used..).

But If I got your previous post correctly, there is no W32i capable GAL for the Wittich on megabus?

Or maybe some kind of autodetection. EmuTOS has an excellent ability to initialize any ET4000 (except W32i) I ever tried in variaous interfaces that normally require different drivers.

After a couple more tests I found that no updated NOVA driver from Idek works with the card. Neither Mega4000 nor megaSTE. The onlyworking driver os the NOVA 171 provided by frank.lukas. I didn't tried NVDI with NOVA enabled, yet

I see. That is good to know.

No it doesn't. The driver just bombs.

BTW, is the modified GAL still capable to handle all kinds of ET4000 boards or just the W32(i)? And what about Mach32/64?

OK, connecting of the +-/12V ISA pins did the trick. Now all my ET4000 cards except /W32 are recognised by EMUTOS and the driver from frank does work as well.

Thanks. Is it ok to just install a momentary switch between motherboard power OK and GND as a temporary workaround?

I have this ISA adapter Wittich Computer GMBH 1991. If I'm not mistaken it should be a predecessor of NOVA and shloud be 16bit. I tried it with a couple of ET4000 and one ET4000/W32 card, but none work. I tried NOVA and VOFA drivers from Idek (bombs) and EmuTOS built-in driver. The later one seem to...

This looks like a good place to ask. I obtained a two TT boards for a diagnostic and repair, but no PSU. I plan to use AT or ATX PSU for the testing, but I'm not sure what I should do with the "power ok" pin. Is it OK to left it alone or it does need some special care?

I've been thinking many times about patching Aranym to directly talk to an external Atari kebyoard instead of IKBD emulation. Jest a simple USBSerial or direct UART interface and voila, instantly working keybord, mouse and joystick ports ready to use. Profit!

You shlould be 100% sure that all clocks a and power are OK, before you touch anything else. The 8Mhz on the CPU input is only sign, that something was not initialised properly at power on. The CPU clock is normally switchable between 16 and 8 MHz by software. What display do you use, BTW, and what ...

Ah, that damn Dallas. That is good point, indeed.

Is it ok for me to remove the Phantom Se and leave the clock patch in? When the clocks are OK, there is no need to remove the clock patch. The pins that needed to be pulled or cut for the Phantom mod are not going back in So I either create jumpers of some kind or replace the chips. Just create the...

The 500Khz clock is created by dividing the 32MHz CLK32 from L102, so the main clock is most probably OK. I'm not sure we can trust your meter at high MHz, though. Maybe will be better to restore the orignal CLK32 path by removing all three wires between a Phantom card, L102 and R234. And replace L1...

Are you sure that you measure it right? The 32MHz at right pad of the L102 is an ouptut from Falcon's system clock oscillator (CLK32).

The correct readings are following: Right pad of L102 - permanent 32MHz ACIA clocks - allways 500Khz R234 (removed) - 32MHz at both pads DSP (blue wire) - 32Mhz Clock patch: 16MHz at all three outputs (white wires at top) and input from R217 resistor and SDMA (long blue wire). Also note the red wire...

It shloud work.

So as per the OP I think the only real way to get this Falcon working is to remove this. You don't need to remove it. Just check the 32MHz clock is present on the right pad of (removed) L102 and on both of the wires leading to the point marked (4) on the wiring picture. Also there shloud be 16MHz o...