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Sorgelig wrote:You've measured wrong!
Power supplies current are rated on output voltage. PSU with 2A means on 5V. No one care how much it draws on 110V - it will be of course very small current.
gojira54 wrote:LED 15 - when the USB hub is powered but not connected this indicates that the FE2.1 IC has survived the install and is operating OK?
gojira54 wrote:The USB cable should be wired like this?
gojira54 wrote:Can I test the USB hubs by wiring on a USB type A standard cable and plugging into a PC?
Poobah wrote:So, I waded through the FE2.1 datasheet and the USB 2.0 device specifications
It appears that the amber LEDs should only light when there is an error condition or an over-current issue.
leejsmith wrote:How are most people connecting them to 5v with a soldered wire, via the power jack or just using the OTG port (I guess this limited the current ?)
leejsmith wrote:Even with a stencil it would put way too much solder paste on and I had to wick shorts away so I brought some of the amtec sticky flux and a finer tip to drag solder the pins and this is a lot better. Once the chip is in place with no shorts under my cheapo usb microscope the rest is easy enough and I only had a few issues with green leds not working and just needed another pass with flux and the fine soldering tip.
Sorgelig wrote:leejsmith wrote:How are most people connecting them to 5v with a soldered wire, via the power jack or just using the OTG port (I guess this limited the current ?)
I solder the wire to power jack under the board. This is most compact and easier way to supply 5V to USB hub. Of course it's not for generic user.
Don't draw 5V from micro USB connector - you will get a lot of problems with USB as the USB power is provided by tiny weak chip tending to rise over-current flag. So, getting 5V from micro USB is really bad idea.leejsmith wrote:Even with a stencil it would put way too much solder paste on and I had to wick shorts away so I brought some of the amtec sticky flux and a finer tip to drag solder the pins and this is a lot better. Once the chip is in place with no shorts under my cheapo usb microscope the rest is easy enough and I only had a few issues with green leds not working and just needed another pass with flux and the fine soldering tip.
If you use soldering iron then i don't suggest to use the soldering paste. Use solder wire. I use it myself and solder all boards for MiSTer. USB hub chip in TSOP case is a little tricky as it requires match on both X and Y axis. Paste can be worse as it may go deep under and provoke the bridges if heat/flux is not enough.
leejsmith wrote:What about using the power socket on the usb board as the main power source and then soldering a barrel lead on the usb board to pass power to the de10. this way the end user will not need to solder anything.
Sorgelig wrote:leejsmith wrote:What about using the power socket on the usb board as the main power source and then soldering a barrel lead on the usb board to pass power to the de10. this way the end user will not need to solder anything.
I've just wrote how i connect it myself. Of course for generic user there are 2 alternative places to install power socket and use split cable to connect the 5V to DE10-nano and USB hub.
Sorgelig wrote:It's better to solder the power socket on other alternative place. So both power sockets will be on the same side.
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