dshadoff wrote:1) The section of "Get a core" could be improved by using an example of a core which does not require SDRAM. Some people may receive their DE10-Nano before they can obtain the SDRAM, and may wish to prepare while waiting for the SDRAM to arrive (or to build themselves). They are also unlikely (at first) to know which cores require SDRAM, so perhaps including a link to that page would be helpful.
dshadoff wrote:2) I found that the SD Card utility created a couple of *.ini files as *.example, and the Wiki failed to identify that these should be renamed - referencing this step as a "Following Step" after the initial test (which would not work without the rename).
These files are for more advanced users. Beginners actually don't need to be aware of them. When user becomes more familiar with MiSTer and would like to get something extra, then at that time he will be aware what these files for. Putting snowball of options to beginner is not a good idea. Beginner with modified MiSTer.ini and non-working system is a worst case.
About DIY soldering in general: It's quite advanced area. It's NOT
supposed to be done by newbie. So most your complains aren't applicable as experience in soldering and reading schematics are required prerequisites.
dshadoff wrote:1) Might be helpful to show polarity for electrolytics and LEDs (but the user can find this info with some effort)
dshadoff wrote:2) The components list is very helpful, but the parts listed for P1 and P7/P9 seem to indicate that this board will be mounted quite a distance away from the DE10-Nano. Although everybody indeed has the option to remodel at their will, I suspect that >90% of people use the same height, and it would be very helpful to indicate a "standard" mounting distance between boards. For example, after looking at the connections between boards, I think that the existing 14mm standoffs are likely "standard" between the DE10-Nano and IO Board, but the P1 & P7 parts listed here indicate that it would be more like 24mm... This is important so that people making their own board know what type of mounting hardware they should get.
There must be no plastic retention under the board. Actually those who dealt with Arduino shields know that pins should be bare. Probably more detailed photos are required to show the soldered pins.
dshadoff wrote:3) There seems to be very little information about the "optional" portions of the board which are often listed as "DNI". For example, JP_SOG on this board. If it is not to be installed, why is it in the diagram ?
DNI components usually required not to be soldered unless it's absolutely required. They usually add some flexibility to embed the MiSTer into some cases as they provide additional connections. Some options are reserved for the future. I don't see the need to describe it very precise. Also DNI components may disappear in the future revisions without notice, so future revisions don't have to keep the compatibility with DNI components. Basically it's also belongs to my note "About DIY soldering in general".
dshadoff wrote:2) VBUS Control. While optional (at least on the v2.1 board), it causes some confusion. Not because of the parts, but rather the jumpers/0-ohm resistors. As I understand it, implementing without VBUS control should have R13 = 0-ohm, JP1 to be 0-ohm, and JP3 to be 0-ohm (based on notes on the schematic... It would be more clear if they were all in the same note).
It's written in schematics. You need to understand that schematics IS the main document for soldering. Not Wiki.
dshadoff wrote:3) Again, "standard" spacing between this board and the DE10-Nano... I realize that this is even more flexible on the USB board because of the barrel connector being an optional power feed, but perhaps this should be called out. It is likely that they are 10mm "without barrel" and 14mm "with barrel", but it's not really clear. I feel that case makers should also be stating the expected board spacing to avoid confusion.
Standard spacing without DC barrel socket is 10mm. With DC socket - undefined. It's UGLY option. I've added it for flexibility, but don't recommend for good looking assembly. Probably standard 15mm (14mm is not so standard, actually) standoff should be enough for this option.